Overview
The Peaks of the Balkans opened in 2012 as a cross-border trail through the Accursed Mountains (Bjeshkët e Nemuna in Albanian, Prokletije in Montenegro). It links valleys and villages that were long separated by closed borders.
Most hikers walk it anticlockwise from Theth, over to Valbonë, then east into Kosovo and back through Montenegro. Days are typically 6 to 8 hours of walking, and guidebooks put the high crossings at roughly 2,250 to 2,300 m. Sources differ on stage lengths, so treat any single number as approximate and check each day on the map.
The 10 classic stages
The usual anticlockwise loop. Many people start elsewhere, for example in Plav or near Peja, and some skip or join stages by road.
- Theth to Valbonë, over the Valbona pass (about 1,800 m)
- Valbonë to Çerem
- Çerem to Dobërdol
- Dobërdol to Milishevc, crossing into Kosovo near Gjeravica
- Milishevc to Reka e Allagës
- Reka e Allagës to Drelaj, in the Rugova valley
- Drelaj to Babino Polje, into Montenegro
- Babino Polje to Plav
- Plav to Vusanje
- Vusanje to Theth, back into Albania over Qafa e Pejës
Border-crossing permits
The trail crosses borders away from official checkpoints, so each crossing needs prior approval from the border police of the country you are leaving. Apply before the trip: at the time of writing, sources advise at least 15 days ahead for Albania and at least 10 days for Kosovo, and Montenegro charges a small administration fee. Rules and forms change, so follow the official cross-border page linked below and carry your passport and approvals.
Where to sleep and eat
Most stages end at family guesthouses or seasonal huts that offer dinner and breakfast, and many will pack a lunch. Several of the high settlements are only occupied in summer, so book ahead, especially in August. Water sources exist on most days but some dry up in late summer.